SUITS TO ORDER

Men's suit. A simple coat, a necessity, a uniform? The last few years capture the suit in a new and optimistic position: that of armor for the contemporary gentleman. The suit has become more than a necessity. It is now a key element in men's wardrobe, indispensable in the most different situations. The costume becomes a means of expression, a refuge, an essential tool in building great achievements.

The Made to Measure suit means, above all, control. Because each stage of making a custom-made suit is particularly important and is handled individually, together with the customer, control over the final result is absolute. A Made to Measure men's suit is a reflection of the wearer's personality, being built exclusively on the basis of his choices starting with the fabric, going through customization details and up to the design and cut. A custom-made suit implies perfect quality, and the quality is given not only by the product itself, but also by the clothing consulting services.

Making a purchase decision, in Romania, proves to be a really difficult one. The offer of men's suits is ever wider, with a variety of fabrics, models, cuts and, of course, prices. Classifying them according to the manufacturing method, men's suits are of three types: bespoke, made to measure and ready to wear. The differences between the three are some major ones, but the comparison is made, most of the time, between bespoke and made to measure. Bespoke, by definition, is classic tailoring (tailor made), i.e. made by a tailor. This involves an entirely manual process, from body measurements, to custom pattern making, to sewing and finishing. Being made by hand, the production time for a bespoke suit is one that can take up to more than a month, with the need for three or four tests in between. A bespoke service in the true sense of the word is rare in Romania, and when it is, the cost becomes one to measure. Made to measure suits are made through a semi-industrialized process, which facilitates the execution time. The measurements are taken based on a standard suit that will be filled in a form along with the fabric, details or special requirements. The standard patterns are modified according to the customer's characteristics, and the finishes are done by hand. The execution time of a made-to-measure piece of clothing is two to three weeks, and the quality is exemplary. The advantage is that once the customer's measurements are saved in the system, they can choose the fabric and details, even remotely, saving them valuable time. The prices of men's made to measure suits are, compared to bespoke, more affordable.

The difference between the two is huge, but even on the ready-made suits side, the advantages are substantial. Chances are that an off-the-rack jacket, pants, or shirt won't flatter a body as well as a custom-made garment, but their easy access and much friendlier price can be deciding factors in a comparison between the two. One of the main advantages of ready to wear lines is that of diversity. The multitude of models and styles, be they casual or elegant, be they slim or regular, autumn-winter or spring-summer, offer the customer not only ease of choice, but also certainty. A large proportion of customers who are new to bespoke suiting are unsure when shown a simple fabric swatch, finding it difficult to visualize the finished product, which is why they prefer to go for ready to wear tailored clothing. own measurements, at the tailor. In this day and age, time is always a key factor. Ready to wear collections are now very complex, and the availability of products in different sizes, as well as the in-house tailoring service, ensures a very good time to purchase an outfit, which, for many, is a real advantage. However, it has long been known that an off the shelf suit will not adapt to the shape and personality of the wearer in the same way that a made to measure one will, but it is all about luck and of course why it matters to everyone.

If you're wondering why you should opt for a custom outfit, the answer is very simple: because of the absolute control you have over your suit. And because the advantages are obvious, the most important thing is to know the step by step process of Made-to-Measure tailoring. 

At Viggo, choosing the right suit starts with... a dialogue. Why this? Because, before establishing the physical details of the future suit, it is very important to talk with a professional clothing advisor. In a completely unique and charming environment, provided by the heritage house of the painter Gheorghe Petrașcu, each client receives a short wardrobe audit after which the context in which the desired suit will be worn is understood, an essential aspect for achieving an optimal result.

A bespoke suit means more than uniqueness by design. This means, first of all, perfection through tailoring. The most important step in creating a Made-to-Measure suit is the measurement. Using a gauge, i.e. a ready-made suit, Viggo clothing advisors decide, together with the customer, which measurements are suitable for his conformation. The width of the shoulders, the waist, the length of the sleeves or the hem of the trousers, everything is carefully checked to achieve a perfect fit. Going through all these steps, the result will undoubtedly be spectacular. The time required for the production of such an outfit is two to three weeks, but the sooner the decision is made, the more complete the peace of mind will be.

Opting for Ready-to-Wear or Made-to-Measure is ultimately a matter of preference. Maybe some of us are reticent when we see a simple piece of fabric in front of us, finding it hard to imagine the final product, or maybe some of us are gifted with a conformation suitable for ready-to-wear, all that matters, in -finally, any event should be celebrated with an outfit tailored to the wearer's personality.

The decision on the material is made according to several aspects. The season is one of the most important. For spring-summer, thin fabrics weighing up to 230gr per linear meter will be chosen, made of wool, cotton, linen, silk or combinations thereof. The colors are predominantly in bright shades, with white being in power, and the design varies between plains, checks or stripes in contrast. By comparison, the cold autumn-winter season is dominated by heavy fabrics, between 260 and over 300gr per linear meter, and the colors are mostly earthy: shades of brown, navy blue, dark green, burgundy, beige. As a design distinction, the cold season surprises with unprocessed, three-dimensional textures, surprising to the touch.

The details of the suit will, of course, be chosen according to the context of its wearing. The most common such situations are business, ceremonial or casual. The difference between the types of jackets is given by several elements: the pattern of the lapel (cutaway, lapel or shawl), the number of buttons (one button, two buttons or two rows of buttons) and, rarely, the number of slits or the type of lining. Thus, a business suit will always be constructed with a lapel or lapel, either with two buttons or, rarely, with two rows of buttons. Pants are generally classic, slightly slim and optionally cuffed. On the other hand, a tuxedo is a very special piece. With a lapel or shawl lapel, always lined in silk, it is distinguished by its single-button construction, silk welt pockets, and trousers that can be constructed with silk welts. In the case of casual outfits, contrasting jacket and trouser combinations are most common. The jacket will have a notched or peaked lapel, two-button, two-slit, and often semi-lined for extra comfort. Pants are generally shorter and can be both ironed with or without a stripe.

The vest is an extremely classic element in the male wardrobe. Due to its timeless character, its charm will never fade. The last three years capture a strong return of the vest, used predominantly in the cold season, for layering. Whether it is good or not to opt for a waistcoat is a decision strictly based on preferences, but a three-piece suit was, is and will remain a basic element in every gentleman's wardrobe.

It is extremely simple. The bow tie will be worn exclusively with a tuxedo or a tailcoat. It is an element of absolute elegance, indispensable in black-tie outfits for evening events, for a wedding, a ball or a gala. The tie, by comparison, is an element that completes every business outfit, being an accessory that exudes power and self-confidence.

The time to make a custom suit depends on the fabric and construction chosen. For a fabric in stock, the delivery period is a maximum of three weeks, while for a fabric ordered from one of our suppliers, the period can increase by up to one week. Also, a traditionally constructed suit will take two days more than a semi-traditionally constructed one.

A bespoke suit is an investment, but even so, the value for money has to be right. Viggo made to measure suits start from 2000 lei for Super 110'S fabrics made by some of the most prestigious fabric manufacturers in Italy and go up to several thousand euros for Super 230's or combinations of cashmere, silk or Vicuna wool.

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